No blade is any good if it isn't sharp.
Which is why I love these. Sharp, and cheap enough that when they go dull, I toss it and reach for a new one(on average, maybe every 30-40 guitar's worth of work). Like Todd, I use the older, dull ones in the Skil saw, but the blade that's in there is still goin strong after something like ten years, despite once cutting into my cast iron vise. Not all carbide is created equal, and these dudes have some nice carbide for their price range.
Todd, yeah, it can wander a bit, especially if you're used to a 10" blade, and don't adjust your feed hand accordingly. Just feed a bit lighter, and let the blade do its thing, and it's very reasonable. Push it a bit, and it'll wander...
The cuts are clean enough that the 3 sides of my headstocks are done with it, and I go right to fine sandpaper before finishing. The Unisaw's arbour was really sweet right from the get-go, but my old Craftsman saw(my Dad's orginal table saw, a 1948 model that still gets used today!) had a bit of wobble, but that was easy enough to true up as you say. Another big help was when I set my fence dead-square to the blade, and not skewed to the rear a bit like we're always told to do. This change was huge, in fact....
I just measured the depth of cut on the Unisaw, and it's 1-3/4". A bit less than I remembered, so I checked the old Crafstman, and that one sneaks nearly 2-1/4" from the same blade. The arbour goes much closer to the table on that guy!
In the end, everyone, if you want to ultimate-smooth cut, yes, go to a Forrest or whatever. But if you want a $10-$20 blade that does 99% of the work extremely well, give the little Diablo blades a try. They changed how I view, and use, the table saw, which is now my most valuable tool, by a long shot.Mario38671.4673263889
|
).